By Melih Uslu
Kartalkaya is an important winter tourism spot that combines comfort with flawless natural beauty.
Who knows how may cities, towns and villages there are in the world that are named for the `eagle`? But among those in Turkey the most famous is Kartalkaya (`Eaglerock` ) in Bolu province. To be compared with the eagle, which has been a symbol of power, strength and remoteness throughout history, a place must, above all, be regarded as very exceptional. Just like Kartalkaya, which is deemed worthy of being the rocky habitat of eagles.
EASY ACCESS
Along with the ever popular Uludag and Kartepe, the highest peak on the shores of Lake Sapanca, Kartalkaya, which is the nearest to Istanbul of the three, is a major area for winter tourism that combines comfort with flawless natural beauty. With its well-equipped mechanical facilities, modern hotels, ski boutiques, ski trails suitable for winter sports of every kind, and colorful nightlife, Kartalkaya has given Uludag a run for its money in recent years.
Equidistant from Istanbul and Ankara, it is in great demand. This ski resort, located 192 km from Ankara and 262 km from Istanbul in Bolu province, was established on the gently rising slopes of the 2378 meter-high Koroglu Mountains, one of the highest ranges on the Black Sea. Harboring a total of 320 highland plateaus in their foothills, these mountains, whose summits have their heads in the clouds in all four seasons, are named for the legendary Koroglu, an Anatolian-style Robinhood who rebelled against the cruel Bolu Bey, robbing the rich to give to the poor. Home to rare species of flora and fauna, the Koroglu range, whose natural beauty is protected by national park status, plays host to ski buffs in winter and to travelers during the other three seasons of the year, extending its hospitality to botanists, zoologists, amateur fishermen and hang gliding enthusiasts.
SKI TRAILS TOTALLING 35 KM IN LENGTH
The peaks and snow-covered contours of the Bolu Mountains, forests veiled in white, solitary alpine cottages, vast plateaus, burbling springs and mind-boggling mountain vistas flit by in rapid succession on the window of the car that is taking me up to Kartalkaya. Situated to the south of Seben township, which is reminiscent of a miniature Cappadocia with its `fairy chimneys`, rock houses, caves, intriguing canyons and conical rock formations, it is 45 km from Bolu city center. The mountain road, which runs from Seben through Kizik and Sarialan up to the ski resorts, is painstakingly cleared all winter long despite heavy snowfall. Nonetheless, chains are a must if you`re driving up in your own car. If you don`t have a car, there`s no alternative but to hire a taxi, or use one of the shuttle services provided by the resort hotels. We arrive at Kartalkaya following a pleasant drive of about one hour from Bolu city center. It is not unusual to find a sizeable army of skiers all winter long at this ski resort, established in the 1970s as an alternative to Uludag which was hard pressed to meet the growing demand. For hordes of people flock to Kartalkaya, attracted by the prospect of gliding over pristine white snow only a few hours from Ankara and Istanbul.
This ski resort, whose ski trails total 35 km in length, is distinguished from the others by its ideal climate for winter sports, the quality of its snow, and its unblemished natural setting. At the ski resort, which is unaffected by the harsh north winds thanks to the pine forests that cover and protect its slopes, the snow stays dry for a long time, producing a cover eminently conducive to winter sports. And the exposure of the ski trails, at an elevation between 1800 and 2200 m, to direct sunlight is an added boon.
HOTEL OR MOUNTAIN COTTAGE: YOUR CHOICE
Kartalkaya boasts a total of 28 ski trails, 13 of which are suitable for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing, paintball and motor safaris. The longest of the ski trails meeting international standards is 1.5 km. There are ski trails for skiers at every level. Apart from a few, almost all the ski trails face the hotels, enabling you to keep an eye on your loved ones from some of their windows. Kartalkaya has three hotels: two first-class resort villages, the Grand Kartal and the Kartal Otel, and one four-star hotel, the Dorukkaya.
For more modest accommodation, you may choose between the Baysal Motel on Sarialan Plateau 8 km from Kartalkaya, and the Sarialan Dag Evi, a mountain cottage serving tourists on Tatlar Plateau 6 km away. This ski resort is equipped with two international- standard ski-lifts and eight chair-lifts capable of transporting 6000 persons per hour. The longest of them is the 1200 meter-long Koroglu ski-lift for more advanced skiers. Narin ski-lift, which is shorter by 100 meters, serves the ski trails of medium difficulty, while the 1050-meter Doruk ski-lift provides access to the less crowded and easier ski trails.
Several alternative ski trails are available for skiers of every level at the 900-meter Great Chair-lift, which is popular for its impressive views. The Grand Kartal and Kartal Hotel use these ski trails in common and guests of each hotel are entitled to ski here at no extra charge.
Guests of the Dorukkaya may use the hotel`s own ski trails. Kartalkaya, which is bathed throughout the day in brilliant sunshine reflecting off the snow, takes on a more romantic mood in the evening. Following a long, relaxing walk at dusk, I commend myself into the arms of Kartalkaya`s colorful nightlife for the evening.
The discotheques of the Dorukkaya and Kartal Hotels buzz with activity right up to the first light of dawn. And at the Spy Bar, a favorite with young people, dance parties are organized around the fireplace.
Following a rousing night I realize why I am so fond of Kartalkaya, a land of pure white midway between Istanbul and Ankara.