by Nur Batu, published in Turkish daily Hurriyet, April 24, 2004
(Translated by Ugur Akinci)
(For the Turkish original of this story click here) )

Batu reporting from CYPRUS, 24 hours prior to the referendum:
In the South, (Greek-Cypriot (GC) President) Papadopulos is tired and nervous. The crowd gathered at the plaza is also tired when they are shouting “Ohi.” Nasty events reported in press and including death threats for those Greek-Cypriots who said “YES” effected everyone. In this atmosphere, the percentage of “Ohi” (No) will probably reach 65-70%.
(At this writing, Greek-Cypriot exit polls indicate 78% “No.” UA)
I am at the Elefteria Plaza of Lefkosa (Nicosia). We are watching GC President Tasos Papadopulos in two giant screens set up in the center of the plaza.
I notice former Greek Defense Minister Yerasimos Arsenis sitting in the front row on the platform facing the giant screens. Arsenis is the architect of the Kardak crisis (in 1996) which brought Greece and Turkey close to a war. Next to him is Stelyos Papatemeli, one of the staunchest supporters of (PKK leader) Abdullah Ocalan (who was caught carrying a Greek passport in Kenya) and former Minister of Public Order. They are both here to support Papadopulos.
There are 1000-1500 ohi-sayers in the plaza. They are listening to a tired and nervous Papadopulos. “Say Ohi,” says Papadopulos, “and make sure it is a strong OHI.”
Then he adds: “There will be a better solution after May 1. Don`t be scared. No one will recognize TRNC (the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus).”
The crowd waves the OHI balloons and signs they are holding and they shout: “We do not forget the invasion. We will not accept a blackmail. Powell, hear our voice. Annan, hear our voice. Ohi!”
Most of the Ohi-sayers in the Elefteria Plaza are young. They are all angry at the Kofi Annan who has been advocating a “Yes” vote as well as the US Secretary of State Powell who had called the Greek-Cypriot leaders repeatedly during the last few days.
There is none of the dynamism and excitement that I have felt during the “Yes!” meeting that I`ve participated in the North just half an hour ago. These two plazas, one kilometers apart, are like the mirrors of all that`s happened during the last 30 years.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO PLAZAS
The Elefteria Plaza is sparkling. Clean pavements. Shiny boulevards. Road sides are decorated by flower beds. Everything reflects the wealth of the Greek-Cypriots.
The Inönü Plaza (in the Turkish-Cypriot side) is illuminated for the meeting but the side streets are dark. The houses need paint and the streets are a bit dirty.
But contrary to the Ohi-sayers listening to Papadopulos, the Turkish-Cypriots who fill the Inönü Plaza are so happy and excited that the American friends with whom I am watching the proceedings are astonished.
John Stilides, the Director of the Western Policy Center in Washington D.C., is asking the meaning of every sign and placard posted up on the buildings surrounding the Inönü Plaza.
Stilides, who observed a small gathering last night in which Glafcos Clerides talked to a group of Yes-sayers, is puzzled. “The Turkish-Cypriots are very happy. There is an incredible excitement here,” Stilides says.
The Inönü and Elefteria plazas are just one kilometer apart. But the atmosphere in these two plazas are like day and night. Inönü Plaza is brimming with happiness and democracy. Elefteria Plaza, on the other hand, is under a cloud of tension, fear and hatred.
SCARY “OHIs”
With only 24 hours left to go to the polls, the things reported in the Cyprus Mail reflect the general atmosphere in Greek-Cyprus. The newspaper is full of unpleasant stories from Nicosia, Baf and Limasol.
Nicosia – an 18 year old student who defended a “Yes” vote for the Annan Plan has been threatened by death by his friends.
Baf – a woman who has a “Yes” sticker on his car has been attacked by the pro-Ohi students.
A graffiti on the walls of the English School -- “Best Turk is a Dead Turk.”
Former Prosecutor Alex Markides appealed to GC Minister of Justice to stop the terrorist attacks of the pro-Ohi students.
The public opinion surveys conducted in Greek-Cyprus are both interesting and scary. The surveys indicate the Ohis may be as high as 65-70%. There are those who claim that “after AKEL`s No, this percentage may well go above 70%.”
MARIOS, the BURGER STAND OPERATOR: “Turkish Soldier Won`t Fight Us”
I am walking the streets of Greek-Cypriot Nicosia together with my young Turkish-Cypriot colleague Oshan Sabirli. Our first stop is Bayraktar Mosque which was restored with EU and UN funds.
There is a big padlock on the door of the mosque.
In front of the mosque, we are chatting with the charming Marios who operates a burger stand. He tells me that they open the mosque “only on special days.”
“What`s gonna happen at the referendum,” I ask him.
“Ohi of course! Are we again going to wait for years to go back to the North? The plan will be resubmitted for a referendum in November after certain changes.” Like most of the Greeks and Greek-Cypriots that I`ve talked to within the last two days, he is also certain that the negotiations (on the Plan) will start after May 1 (when Greek-Cyprus will become a new member of the EU).
“Aren`t you afraid of the Turkish troops (on the island)?” I ask, to push his buttons.
“Not really. What the Turkish troops gonna do to us? They`ll fight us? I don`t believe that anymore. We don`t know much about the Plan. But it`s Ohi now. Look, we are becoming an EU member anyhow. We are rich. We`ve got money. What`s really important is money. Let the Turks join us. Look, we even have Bangladeshis here. There are Pakistanis and Russians. Are we doing anything to them?”
Marios crosses himself and then starts rocking back and forth as though he was performing namaz (Muslim prayer) by opening his arms towards the sky, and adds:
“What good is praying? What`s important is the money! Money will correct everything. Forget about the rest.”
IMAM: “I wish they said Yes so that the Turks could come to this mosque”
We proceed on to Hazreti Omer Mosque. The mosque is open. There is a smell of eggs cooked with tomatoes inside. The mosque`s imam emerges from his little room and greets us with a “Merhaba.” Hüseyin is a young imam from Syria. He has arrived 6 months ago. His salary is paid by Libya.
“My parish consists of Bangladeshis, Pakistanis and Afghans. But there are no Turks,” he says.
“Do you think the Turks would also attend after the referendum,” I ask him.
He laughs. “Difficult. They (the Greek-Cypriots) will vote No. I wish they voted Yes so that the Muslim Turks could also attend the mosque.”
On the street behind the Omer Mosque stands the Tahtali Kale Mosque. It is being restored. We approach the group of men and women carrying out the restoration project. One of them tells us that they are repairing the mosque with the fund from the UN and the USA. I again ask the same question:
“What`s going to happen in the referendum?”
A bitter smile spreads across the face of the young woman:
“Unfortunately we will vote No.”