The deep call of Kemer

By LEVENT KONUK

The deep call of Kemer The turquoise waters of the Mediterranean have an appeal for divers too. Are you prepared to discover three shipwrecks in a single day?

Anatolia has been home to various civilizations over the centuries, and although the seas that surround this land can perhaps not compare with the tropical seas in terms of the range and vitality of their submarine life, these waters boast a very special wealth; shipwrecks.

Some of them have sunk in storms, others as the result of warfare, but all have rested intact at the bottom for centuries and today provide unforgettable moments for the divers who visit them. For a diver, nothing matches the thrill of diving down to a wreck.

As you enter an unprecedented world your eyes begin to scan the surroundings. At first you are met by a vague scene, and can't decide whether it is dream or reality. With a mixture of curiosity, excitement and the urge to explore you approach and see the ship begin to take shape.

You witness how something made by man can blend with nature and even become a nest, how the adventure of life takes on a new dimension.

THREE WRECK DIVES IN A SINGLE DAY

The areas in Turkey that harbor shipwrecks are host to thousands of Turkish and foreign divers every year. The most popular such spot is probably Kemer in Antalya, where those who come to dive are especially fortunate.

In most parts of the world ships have gone down in the open sea, and a tiring trip of 3 or 4 hours by boat is required to reach them before diving. But at Kemer one can dive down to three wrecks on the same day, all of them very near to the harbor and to each other: The Paris II, the Tor III and the Pati.

The first sank during World War I, the other two in more recent years, and diving down to all of them is a pleasure that can be enjoyed in comfort.

A FRENCH SHIP: THE PARIS II

Let's start our dives with the wreck of the Paris II. A boat trip lasting only five minutes puts us directly over the ship. Commanded by Captain Rollin, the Paris II was attached during World War I to the Syria 7th Cavalry Company.

Its mission was to patrol in coordination with the Alexandrea and prevent the Turks from refueling German submarines between Marmaris and Anamur. On December 13, 1917, the Paris II and the Alexandrea, maintaining the distance that separated them, were cruising off Cape Agva. To the east, lighters from Antalya were casting anchor in a bay of the same name.

Suddenly the Paris II lookout signalled that he had spied a lighter in the bay. What happened next was told by Captain Rollin as follows:

"When we reached the northwestern entrance to the harbor I gave the order to lower the boat with the purpose of capturing the lighter. As the boat headed toward the vessel it directed machinegun fire at the shore.

At 11:25, just as the boat reached the vessel, there came a fearful explosion on the starboard side of the bridge. One of the bombs exploded in the coal hold. This was followed by a rain of bombs, rifle and machinegun bullets.

The first two enemy shots had taken out the radio and the 75 caliber guns on both sides, so only the 100 caliber gun at the bow was in use. The shell that hit the command center split it in two.

Trying to reach the tip of the cape, I turned the rudder to starboard but noticed that we were heading in the port direction. When the munitions dump in the stern exploded, fragments of metal flew through the air and the rudder locked up completely.

The damage was great and enemy fire continued as a fire raged. Because the rudder was locked the ship described a circle in the water. All our guns were out of action, so we couldn't defend ourselves, and the stern of the Paris II was slowly sinking.

The crew, almost all of them wounded, were waiting for the captain's order to abandon ship, and all I could do was to assist in saving them. I gave the command: 'Everyone jump in the water.'"

THE TOR III AGAINST THE MONSTER WAVES

The ship lies on the sand 30 meters down with a cargo of ammunition, and its story makes the dive even more exciting. After the dive we have to wait two or three hours to get rid of the nitrogen that has built up in our bodies. Our next destination is the wreck of the Tor III. I well remember the night of January 22, 2004 when the ship sank. A fierce storm, wind, tornado and rain...

As the massive waves boomed against the cliffs the sea was lit up by flashes of lightning that revealed the terror of the storm. Having set sail from Cyprus before being caught in the storm, the Tor III could not hold up against the violent wind and monster waves, and began to be swept along out of control.

Half a mile off the coast of Kemer, it drew perilously close to the shallows which old-timers know as the 'Sunken Island.' Pounded by the giant waves, the ship totally lost control and at 04:45 in the morning capsized with a terrific uproar and sent out an SOS:

"We're sinking."

The waves were so huge that after they broke on the ship they went right across and over. As the eight shipwreck sailors struggled to stay alive, the rescue team, faced by the might of nature, had no choice but to wait for the storm to die down.

The wait lasted some 13 hours, but finally the storm subsided and the sailors were indeed rescued and rushed to a hospital. By a tremendous stroke of luck no lives were lost.

In the year that has passed since then the shipwreck has become a kind of artificial reef, providing a home to several species of submarine life in the region.

Every time we dive to this wreck we observe that it, and its surroundings, are a little more alive. Indeed, in the early hours of the morning you even have a chance to witness a visit to the wreck by Mediterranean Monk Seals.

A NEW UNDERWATER HOME TO LIFE: THE PATI

The last dive of the day is to the Pati. Generally known as the 'refugee wreck,' the ship went down on an interesting date: 01/01/2001.

On a stormy new year's night the ship's captain insisted on leaving the Antalya harbor despite all the bad weather warnings.

He reported that his ship was empty, but in fact 73 refugees and 10 crew members were concealed in the hold. Unable to withstand the powerful storm due to a malfunction in the engine room, the ship ran aground and sank off the coast of Kemer towards dawn.

It is possible to see the ship from the surface as it lies on its starboard side. The depth here is no more than 12 meters, making it ideal for beginning divers. Since it sank the hull of the boat has been covered with sponges.

But it is schools of saddled bream, the new proprietors of the ship, that swim in through the hatches to the hold.

Seaweed covers the cold steel hull completely, and receives the attentions of the parrotfish's strong jaws. Corroded by the saltwater, some parts shelter moray eels, octopuses and goldblotch groupers. Predatory giant perch make frequent calls on the wreck because of the sand smelt they are so fond of.

In order not to become an easy morsel, the sand smelt look to make a home in the ship, exploring its interior just like us. They press forward to survive, we do so because we can't resist our instincts. There is a call that comes from within you, and if you want to heed it come to Kemer.

Here there are three fine chances, not to be missed for those who would experience the mystery of a sunken ship. We wish you colorful diving.